BUCKET list: must experience Saffire at Freycinet before marking a significant milestone. Tick!
Last month as a special treat I stayed at Saffire to experience what the experts say is one of the best boutique hotels in the world. And they have the awards to prove it.
With that in mind – and friends telling us it was exceptional – we had to manage our high expectation for fear of being underwhelmed by the reality.
Note to self. Didn’t need to worry about that. Not that it was perfect, what is, but it was an experience I will remember forever, unlike the very enjoyable but forgettable getaways to non-descript destinations.
Planned six months ahead, anticipation was strong, with each of us emailing weekly with an updated countdown to “S Day’’.
The day arrived. Just a week after the terrifying fires which burned so much of the Friendly Beaches and Coles Bay Road area.
Signs and smell of the fire were still evident and the roadside bush in the drive in was charred by the early spring bushfire.
As we turned off Coles Bay Road into the Saffire entrance the signs were quite adamant. Guests Only. Do not enter if not a guest.
Ha, ha, ha. We are guests…. take that!
We had arrived. And as we exited the car Mel, our guest manager, arrived almost magically to welcome us and explain we just needed to walk in and leave everything behind. Our luggage would be delivered to our room and the car secured. And it was seamlessly.
Saffire is now 13 years old but it still is in very good shape, good maintenance is obvious. But for those who have an aversion to water features (yes you know who you are) beware, the sound of waterfall is pronounced and given the generous hospitality (think alcohol) the water feature edges are an accident waiting to happen and a workplace safety managers nightmare.
As requested, when we booked, a dry martini with olives was offered on arrival. Oh how fancy and luxurious.
A few sips and Mel was keen to show us the layout. What could go wrong? Steep steps, water features, walkways with exposed ponds either side?
But timing is everything. As we approached the steps with martini in hand one of the excellent chefs emerged from the kitchen and offered (very kindly) to hold my martini as I descended the steps.
Emergency averted.
And martini was retrieved at the base of the stairs.
On to our room. I’m not sure how they did it but the architects of this 20-room hotel managed to ensure every room fully captures the Hazards in the large window at the front of our luxury home for the next two days.
And as promised all our luggage was installed. Plus, a bottle of Arras in an ice bucket.
At dinner we decide to choose the degustation menu. We also dress up. Not something any of our fellow guests choose to do.
Now here is the disclaimer. After a martini and a bottle of Arras our taste buds may have been wanting. So I will not comment on the first night’s menu as I suspect it was wonderful, but to me it tasted a little like a menu offerings on a cruise ship.
First morning and the breakfast was fabulous, who thought to add broad beans to smashed avocado and sourdough? (How is the mortgage deposit going?).
Next on the agenda was a fascial and massage. Saffire staff you should be proud. It was extraordinary. I would recommend you every day of the week.
There are several activities included for guests, archery, welcome to country and a Tasmanian devil experience. For us shucking oysters at a nearby marine farm was the only choice. And a good one.
Our guide, an Australian from New South Wales originally, was very engaging and informative. I now know more about the life cycle of an oyster than many. And yes, it’s interesting.
We waded out into the bay and enjoyed freshly shucked oysters straight from the water on a table with white tablecloth, sparkling wine, tabasco, wasabi and ponzu.
Our guide is something of a free spirit who has spent his last 20 years travelling the world and guiding in some of the most remote places in the world. Think Patagonia, Africa, the Himalayas and much more. A fascinating person who loves his job.
He also said the staff accommodation at Saffire was the best in the world. One of the pluses for working at Saffire. And at a time when it’s hard to get staff, that’s a drawcard.
With the oysters shucked and consumed it was time to return to Saffire. A pre-dinner cocktail and dinner. This time we went al a carte. And it was wonderful, predominately Tasmanian sourced. We chose Robbins island wagyu beef tartare, blue eye, chicken with poached Four Mile mushrooms, tarragon butter and more.
Our bed and room were comfortable, but a chess board and desk chair for work presumably seemed redundant to us. A stock of classic novels (think Bronte, Dickens, etc seemed a little pretentious).
The modular couch was narrow and while there was a coffee table, eating breakfast at it as opposed to a dining table, a delicate balancing act.
The lighting in the bathroom was not light enough and I risked clown like make-up. Oh the horror.
The last morning arrived quickly. Like our arrival the departure was seamless … or so I thought.
On my return home I discovered I had left my fitbit charger and a necklace at Saffire.
I phoned and Mel answered and said she would go to the room immediately and see what she could find.
Sure enough the lost items were located, put in an express post pack and addressed to me. That express post took a week to get from Saffire to Hobart had nothing to do with Saffire, more Australia Post!
*The author paid her own way.